Photographer Abbas Atilay of RFE/RL’s Azerbaijani Service visited the markets of Tabriz and Orumieh (Urmia) in northwestern Iran’s mainly ethnic Azeri provinces. These bazaars are not only the commercial hearts of the cities; they are also the political centers that have spawned recent protest movements.
Iranian Markets: Seeds Of Discontent
![Photographer Abbas Atilay of RFE/RL’s Azerbaijani Service recently visited two cities, Tabriz and Orumieh (Urmia), in northwestern Iran’s mainly ethnic Azeri provinces. Shown here: a neighborhood of Tabriz](https://gdb.rferl.org/2a67ff4f-c0ac-4d76-93a0-8646630a9e93_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Photographer Abbas Atilay of RFE/RL’s Azerbaijani Service recently visited two cities, Tabriz and Orumieh (Urmia), in northwestern Iran’s mainly ethnic Azeri provinces. Shown here: a neighborhood of Tabriz
![Atilay went straight to the commercial hearts of the cities: the markets.](https://gdb.rferl.org/d5b280ac-22ba-49f5-a5ef-645724ad4ab4_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Atilay went straight to the commercial hearts of the cities: the markets.
![Markets have been operating in northwestern Iran since the 12th century.](https://gdb.rferl.org/1c1f9a05-d8b0-4dba-b3fd-09a07b2eb1e2_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Markets have been operating in northwestern Iran since the 12th century.
![These commercial centers have another role in the lives of the cities as well: They have historically been the point of origin of protest movements.](https://gdb.rferl.org/599669d1-ca74-4a54-a2e7-7c7b842373b3_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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These commercial centers have another role in the lives of the cities as well: They have historically been the point of origin of protest movements.
![In Tabriz, vendors launched a strike in September 2010 against massive tax increases. The strike soon spread to other cities, and the Iranian government withdrew the planned tax hike.](https://gdb.rferl.org/bc48b15f-c733-4a0e-8a64-bdfdc666ff29_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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In Tabriz, vendors launched a strike in September 2010 against massive tax increases. The strike soon spread to other cities, and the Iranian government withdrew the planned tax hike.
![In 2011, Orumieh spawned a protest movement of its own. Residents are demanding action to prevent the further desertification of Lake Orumieh, caused by both drought and water mismanagement. Shown here: the Orumieh bazaar](https://gdb.rferl.org/8b65093c-85dd-43d9-a149-148276c4e8ab_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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In 2011, Orumieh spawned a protest movement of its own. Residents are demanding action to prevent the further desertification of Lake Orumieh, caused by both drought and water mismanagement. Shown here: the Orumieh bazaar
![Zakir, a samovar seller in Orumieh, said business shut down as soon as the protests started but people still came to the market to get the latest news.](https://gdb.rferl.org/8335c75a-3e73-4189-a68a-69968003639f_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Zakir, a samovar seller in Orumieh, said business shut down as soon as the protests started but people still came to the market to get the latest news.
![“We were encouraged by the protests at the Tabriz market,” Zakir said. “Everyone in the market tried to do something to contribute. It was not a political movement, but a ‘self-respect’ movement.”](https://gdb.rferl.org/70b0f161-5098-4a9b-bfeb-41355ad8b7b3_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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“We were encouraged by the protests at the Tabriz market,” Zakir said. “Everyone in the market tried to do something to contribute. It was not a political movement, but a ‘self-respect’ movement.”
![Produce vendors in the market say crops are affected by wind-blown salt from the dying lake. Winegrowers can only collect a fraction of the grapes they once harvested.](https://gdb.rferl.org/5a8217d3-4ba0-4e27-93a0-9f7e7444ff34_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Produce vendors in the market say crops are affected by wind-blown salt from the dying lake. Winegrowers can only collect a fraction of the grapes they once harvested.
![As a result of the simmering unrest in the region, police officers are now a common site in the markets, either uniformed or plainclothes.](https://gdb.rferl.org/755328cc-53b8-4d1d-b245-a1e65bfdab63_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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As a result of the simmering unrest in the region, police officers are now a common site in the markets, either uniformed or plainclothes.
![Atilay encountered suspicion from market vendors who thought he was a secret agent working for Tehran.](https://gdb.rferl.org/290e3f22-ef8c-48b8-92fb-e2c9596df50d_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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Atilay encountered suspicion from market vendors who thought he was a secret agent working for Tehran.
![But once he explained that he was a photographer from Baku, most sellers were willing to speak freely.](https://gdb.rferl.org/4c43fd75-9660-49e8-ba18-e4f790f20630_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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But once he explained that he was a photographer from Baku, most sellers were willing to speak freely.
![](https://gdb.rferl.org/72203b10-4018-4c98-9211-2946e2464296_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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![](https://gdb.rferl.org/dea5da33-18c0-4f60-b1bc-dc398120bd5c_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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![](https://gdb.rferl.org/70e11fd4-acef-4af8-86b7-81362338fdb8_w1024_q10_s.jpg)
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